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The dependence of seam slippage values on fabric construction parameters makes this property an interesting case for study.

In this study, made on a significant wool and blended fabrics sample, the seam slippage was measured, either in warp direction (weft yarns slip), or in weft direction (warp yarns slip), using a specially equipped load‐elongation tester. Testing was done following the TM 117 Woolmark Company test method.

For most fabrics, the conventional variables that impact seam slippage most seriously are opacity, polyamide content, finish type and cover factor.

Since this research does not deal with the variable of yarn crimp in fabrics, it is the cover factor that plays the central role, as the property determining seam slippage. The yarns with lower cover factor (less crimped) are in less danger of slipping between the perpendicular yarns (more crimped) and vice versa.

Based on the equations given, and changing the most relevant variables concerning the explanation of the fabric seam slippage property, the fabric properties can be optimised for specific end‐uses.

Optimisation of seam slippage in fabric design.

Considering that the human body is undeniable a fashion space, the purpose of this paper is to highlight the importance of design and material choice in the relationship between clothing and accessories, namely, bags, for the fashion consumer.

Initially the paper provides a historical framing of the use of materials in bags and its relation with clothing. Then, are described the characteristics of materials and how the human body relates to them, specifically how the sense of touch plays a decisive role in materials choice. Thus a natural fiber-based fabric as wool fabric is presented as a choice for some brands in the development of fashion accessories.

It was found that there are an immense variety of materials that can be used in bags creation, and the use of them has changed over the years, influenced by social and economic conditions, fashion trends, and by technology evolutions in the production of fibers and composites. Taking in consideration that there is a long history of use of woven fabrics with natural fibers and a growing demand for sustainable and organic products, the use of wool natural fabrics in the production of bags were presented as a following road to the fashion industry.

Since the relationship between materials used in apparel and fashion accessories is an area barely documented, this paper contributes to underline the possibility to exceed conventional design barriers and develop innovative and creative wool products pleasant for the human body as a fashion space.

We present a critical literature review debating Brazilian research on social and environmental accounting (SEA). The aim of this study is to understand the role of politics in the construction of hegemonies in SEA research in Brazil. In particular, we examine the role of hegemony in relation to the co-option of SEA literature and sustainability in the Brazilian context by the logic of development for economic growth in emerging economies. The methodological approach adopts a post-structural perspective that reflects Laclau and Mouffe’s discourse theory. The study employs a hermeneutical, rhetorical approach to understand and classify 352 Brazilian research articles on SEA. We employ Brown and Fraser’s (2006) categorizations of SEA literature to help in our analysis: the business case, the stakeholder–accountability approach, and the critical case. We argue that the business case is prominent in Brazilian studies. Second-stage analysis suggests that the major themes under discussion include measurement, consulting, and descriptive approach. We argue that these themes illustrate the degree of influence of the hegemonic politics relevant to emerging economics, as these themes predominantly concern economic growth and a capitalist context. This paper discusses trends and practices in the Brazilian literature on SEA and argues that the focus means that SEA avoids critical debates of the role of capitalist logics in an emerging economy concerning sustainability. We urge the Brazilian academy to understand the implications of its reifying agenda and engage, counter-hegemonically, in a social and political agenda beyond the hegemonic support of a particular set of capitalist interests.